Pig: A Restaurant Reviewed in NY Times Diner's Journal<p><b><font size=4><a href="http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/12/08/pig-a-play-roasts-the-food-obsessed/">
â€˜Pig,â€™ a Play, Roasts the Food-Obsessed</a></b></font><br>
By JED LIPINSKI<br>
Marcus Yam for The New York Times
<p>At a performance of <a href="http://newyork.ucbtheatre.com/shows/view/2850">
â€œPig: A Restaurantâ€</a> at the Upright Citizens Brigade Theater in Chelsea on Wednesday night, a deranged celebrity chef unveiled a drink list featuring â€œbacon-infused bourbonâ€ and â€œpork cheek bitters.â€ A locavore praised the taste of edible weeds picked along the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway. And a food publicist fretted that a photographerâ€™s flash might compromise â€œthe integrity of the foodâ€™s color story.â€
<p>It is clear that the creators of this 30-minute show â€” which unfolds at the opening of â€œEast Gowanusâ€™s hottest new eateryâ€ and deftly skewers the pretensions of New York foodie culture â€” have spent time in the food industry. The sole actor, Lauren Conlin Adams, who portrays a variety of maddening food-world types, has waited tables at Balthazar, Morandi and DB Bistro Moderne, among others. The playwright, Leila Cohan-Miccio, is a former editor of the food blog Grub Street Boston and contributes regularly to Saveur.
<p>In an interview backstage, they said the obsession with what and how we eat had reached absurd heights. â€œBacon is delicious,â€ Ms. Cohan-Miccio conceded, â€œbut at a certain point I was like, â€˜If I have to read another press release about a bacon-wrapped meatloaf Iâ€™m going to shoot myself in the head.â€™ â€ Ms. Adams, imitating someone from a do-it-yourself Brooklyn food cooperative, added, â€œWe used our welding torches to prepare this soft poached egg.â€
<p>Yet both women continue to identify themselves as â€œhard-core food nerds.â€ In a sense, they are the very people they lampoon in the play. â€œAs much as it is a satire, if Pig: A Restaurant existed we would totally go,â€ Ms. Adams explained. â€œWeâ€™d figure out who works for the chef, or whoâ€™s doing P.R., and weâ€™d try to get in early.â€
<p>It seems fitting that Ms. Adams and Ms. Cohan-Miccio, who met through the Upright Citizens Brigade Theaterâ€™s sketch comedy classes, conceived the idea for â€œPigâ€ while drinking wine at John Dory Oyster Bar, a well-reviewed restaurant in the Ace Hotel. For Wednesday nightâ€™s performance, they invited a half-dozen staff members from DB Bistro Moderne, including a server, a hostess and a chef. â€œI had to reassure them that we donâ€™t skewer anyone at DB,â€ Ms. Adams said, laughing.
<p>The play has been performed only four times, but has already received plenty of praise on food-centric Web sites like Gothamist and Eater. A fifth performance is scheduled for Dec. 21; after that the two women and the director, Caitlin Bitzegaio, hope to take the production to Los Angeles. The names of neighborhoods will be changed, Ms. Cohan Miccio said, with the help of â€œour L.A. consultants.â€
<p>â€œThe question is,â€ Ms. Adams added, â€œdo the Californians like bacon as much as we like bacon in Brooklyn?â€